What an incredible day!!! We did a tour that included a trip to Wat Tham Seua (Tiger Cave Temple), a swim in the Emerald Pool outside of Krabi, and a dip in hot springs in a national park.
Although we have seen a lot of wats, the Tiger Cave Temple is unique. The main hall is built into a long, shallow limestone cave. Dozens of gu-di (monastic cells) are built into various cliffs and caves. Monkeys as well as stray dogs and cats were everywhere. Brendan walked with great trepidation. He has developed quite a fear of dogs since being jumped and badly scratched in Capetown. He also has a healthy fear of stray animals (smart little guy as rabies are rampant in this part of the world). Right before we started our walk we saw a monkey up in a tree eating a pink-coloured popsicle. Why he had it was soon answered. Just then a dad with his little son (around four) came out of the store with a new one. The little boy began to unwrap his second popsicle and was jumped by yet another monkey. This time he held on to it, however! We climbed up to the cave where we saw pictures of human entrails and human organs. There was also a human skeleton on display… all to remind guests of the impermanence of the body.
On the tour with us was a great couple from Japan, Bradley and Muki. All of us were keen to climb the 1237 steps to the top of the karst at Tiger Temple, but the rest of the people on the tour (all Thais) weren’t interested. As the Thai group were heading to the airport at the end of the day, our guide promised to bring us back to do the climb afterwards. We hiked through the jungle to see a 800 and a 1000 year old tree. On the way we saw a huge spider in a web, armies of ants, and two tortoises. Every time we saw wildlife our guide would say, “Good for Bar-B-Q!!!” and we’d laugh.
Little did we know just how much the rest of the day would take out of us! The stop of the Emerald Pool were divine and we swam for a good hour. Next we stopped at the hot springs and languished far too long. The heat sapped all of our energy and by the time we crawled out we were all knackered. A lazy lunch of curried seafood soup and rice in the heat reinforced the lack of inertia and after dropping off our fellow travellers we were hardly in shape to begin a climb. Joe (who is constantly surprising me on this trip) was the keenest. Bradley and Muki were up for it. And while I was indifferent, the boys were positively adamant that they didn’t want to do it. The kids and I got outvoted (the kids votes carried a little less weight) and we were soon at the base ready to start our ascent. The boys, the least enthusiastic about the adventure, were like little mountain goats and, as at Table Mountain, left all of us adults in the dust. “See you at the top!” they yelled and climbed straight upwards with seemingly little exertion. Meanwhile Joe, Bradley, Muki, and I panted our way, suffering all the way to the top. Many of the steps were over a meter high. Some were so steep that you barely had room to place your toes on them. It was a tough climb, especially in the humidity and heat and we were absolutely withered by the time that we got to the top. But what a reward! Bettina, you would have loved this!!! At the summit was a massive Buddha stupa, a gilded stupa, and a magnificent view of the surrounding area all the way out to the Andaman Sea. We spent time at top talking to fellow travellers from Holland, the US, and Thailand.
On the way down we met several monks and nuns heading up. A couple of the monks looked no older than Ryan and were resplendent in their saffron robes. I was especially happy for Brendan for these encounters as he did a comprehensive project of Buddhism before leaving on our trip.
Although our descent was much easier that going up, our legs were literally shaking by the time we ended our trek down. We soon bid our new friends Bradley and Muki good-bye. But, not before the Buddhist nun blessed those who had made the climb – offering a prayer and a bracelet. Although she was clearly devout – shaved head, white robe and offering blessings, she clearly had a sense of humour and pride in her chosen path as she blessed the boys and us.
When we got back to our resort, the boys took a plunge immediately in the pool. I wasn’t so smart and went to see if I could find a good book. By the time I got back I had crashed big time and could barely walk to dinner. My blood sugar had taken a dive and it took a good hour of drinking water, Gatorade, and eating a plate of fresh fruit before I felt human again.
We ate our last meal in Krabi at Rocky’s restaurant and bid him a tearful good-bye. He had taken care of all of us, especially Brendan, so well and we felt like we were leaving a good friend. Just as we rounded the corner to go home, who did we run into, but Bradley and Muki! We chatted with them for a half an hour bid them a warm farewell one more time.
We’re off to Chiang Mai in the north of Thailand tomorrow and we can’t wait! Our flight leaves at ten so we’ll be up bright and early for the third day in a row – a bit of a shock to the Kuffner system, but we’ll rise to the challenge of rising with the birds (and frogs) despite yet another late night.
Although we have seen a lot of wats, the Tiger Cave Temple is unique. The main hall is built into a long, shallow limestone cave. Dozens of gu-di (monastic cells) are built into various cliffs and caves. Monkeys as well as stray dogs and cats were everywhere. Brendan walked with great trepidation. He has developed quite a fear of dogs since being jumped and badly scratched in Capetown. He also has a healthy fear of stray animals (smart little guy as rabies are rampant in this part of the world). Right before we started our walk we saw a monkey up in a tree eating a pink-coloured popsicle. Why he had it was soon answered. Just then a dad with his little son (around four) came out of the store with a new one. The little boy began to unwrap his second popsicle and was jumped by yet another monkey. This time he held on to it, however! We climbed up to the cave where we saw pictures of human entrails and human organs. There was also a human skeleton on display… all to remind guests of the impermanence of the body.
On the tour with us was a great couple from Japan, Bradley and Muki. All of us were keen to climb the 1237 steps to the top of the karst at Tiger Temple, but the rest of the people on the tour (all Thais) weren’t interested. As the Thai group were heading to the airport at the end of the day, our guide promised to bring us back to do the climb afterwards. We hiked through the jungle to see a 800 and a 1000 year old tree. On the way we saw a huge spider in a web, armies of ants, and two tortoises. Every time we saw wildlife our guide would say, “Good for Bar-B-Q!!!” and we’d laugh.
Little did we know just how much the rest of the day would take out of us! The stop of the Emerald Pool were divine and we swam for a good hour. Next we stopped at the hot springs and languished far too long. The heat sapped all of our energy and by the time we crawled out we were all knackered. A lazy lunch of curried seafood soup and rice in the heat reinforced the lack of inertia and after dropping off our fellow travellers we were hardly in shape to begin a climb. Joe (who is constantly surprising me on this trip) was the keenest. Bradley and Muki were up for it. And while I was indifferent, the boys were positively adamant that they didn’t want to do it. The kids and I got outvoted (the kids votes carried a little less weight) and we were soon at the base ready to start our ascent. The boys, the least enthusiastic about the adventure, were like little mountain goats and, as at Table Mountain, left all of us adults in the dust. “See you at the top!” they yelled and climbed straight upwards with seemingly little exertion. Meanwhile Joe, Bradley, Muki, and I panted our way, suffering all the way to the top. Many of the steps were over a meter high. Some were so steep that you barely had room to place your toes on them. It was a tough climb, especially in the humidity and heat and we were absolutely withered by the time that we got to the top. But what a reward! Bettina, you would have loved this!!! At the summit was a massive Buddha stupa, a gilded stupa, and a magnificent view of the surrounding area all the way out to the Andaman Sea. We spent time at top talking to fellow travellers from Holland, the US, and Thailand.
On the way down we met several monks and nuns heading up. A couple of the monks looked no older than Ryan and were resplendent in their saffron robes. I was especially happy for Brendan for these encounters as he did a comprehensive project of Buddhism before leaving on our trip.
Although our descent was much easier that going up, our legs were literally shaking by the time we ended our trek down. We soon bid our new friends Bradley and Muki good-bye. But, not before the Buddhist nun blessed those who had made the climb – offering a prayer and a bracelet. Although she was clearly devout – shaved head, white robe and offering blessings, she clearly had a sense of humour and pride in her chosen path as she blessed the boys and us.
When we got back to our resort, the boys took a plunge immediately in the pool. I wasn’t so smart and went to see if I could find a good book. By the time I got back I had crashed big time and could barely walk to dinner. My blood sugar had taken a dive and it took a good hour of drinking water, Gatorade, and eating a plate of fresh fruit before I felt human again.
We ate our last meal in Krabi at Rocky’s restaurant and bid him a tearful good-bye. He had taken care of all of us, especially Brendan, so well and we felt like we were leaving a good friend. Just as we rounded the corner to go home, who did we run into, but Bradley and Muki! We chatted with them for a half an hour bid them a warm farewell one more time.
We’re off to Chiang Mai in the north of Thailand tomorrow and we can’t wait! Our flight leaves at ten so we’ll be up bright and early for the third day in a row – a bit of a shock to the Kuffner system, but we’ll rise to the challenge of rising with the birds (and frogs) despite yet another late night.
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