May 25 We'll stay another day

Today ended up being one our favourite travel days. It certainly didn’t start out that way. The travel agent that we talked to told us that our car would arrive at nine with both a driver and guide. Only a driver showed. The situation was quickly resolved when we said that we wouldn’t cough up the remaining 1,000 rupees agreed upon. We were soon told that we would pick up a government-certified guide. Twenty minutes later we were bonding with Rama, a seventy-six year old woman who had over thirty years experience of guiding in Mumbai.

We had picked up Rama right next to where she lived - the Ghandi Museum at Mani Bhavan. Her grandfather’s brother, she told us, was the owner of the Mani Bhvan where Ghandi stayed every time that he visited Bombay (as it was known at the time). She had fond memories of sitting on Ghandi’s lap as a young girl.

The museum was exceptional. Rama took us through floor by floor narrating the history of the Ghandi era. Last summer while up at the cottage we all watched the film, ‘Ghandi’, and the boys surprised Rama with their knowledge of the man who changed the course of India’s history (and South Africa’s). The third floor was the highlight showcasing a good twenty superbly crafted dioramas depicting key stages of Ghandi’s life. By 10:30 I felt that my day was made. Little did I know how much richness and experience of this fascinating city was yet to be revealed!

Our next stop was to the Jain temple. The time that we spent there could best be described as ‘other-worldly’. Worshippers offered fruit and garlands of flowers to their deities – all twenty-four of them - depicted throughout the temple. We were so very fortunate as a prayer service complete with music and drumming had just begun. The Jains, we learned, are the most wealthy group of people – traders, jewelers, landlords, and businessmen. The temple, like the Taj Mahal is fashioned from white marble inlaid with a multitude of colourful gemstones. On the wall was an illustration of the various stages of ‘goodness’. Only when one achieves spiritual greatness can one escape from the birth and rebirth cycle of reincarnation. We were intoxicated with the smells of incense and the garlands of floral offerings. Reverse swastikas were being constructed by many with grains of rice to symbolize life’s stages of birth, childhood, maturity, and death. Rama explained that before one made an offer to a deity that one’s mouth had to be covered with a bandanna-like scarf tied behind the neck. Jains are vegetarians and believe in total non-violence even towards insects! For this reason, they only eat fruits and vegetables that are grown and harvested above ground – for fear of harming insects during tilling or digging for crops. Only in India.

We stopped for Indian food and both Rama and our driver were thrilled when we told them that we would treat them. We ordered everything without dairy (remembering to include ghee!) so that Brendan could partake. He loved it as did the rest of us. We had curry, nan, biryani, poppadom, and spicy vegetables. Our driver treated us to sugar-coated anise to munch on after we finished our meal.

We told Rama that we would like to see a cremation ceremony. She brought us to an wealthy area where the rich are cremated. Though there wasn’t a cremation underway Rama took us to where the pyres are constructed and explained the traditions. We toured the buildings housing the stacks of wood and peeked into the temple.

Our next stop was the Daharvri slums, the largest slum in Mumbai. Seeing the slum as we drove through it was overwhelming. Mr. Babu, our driver, parked to allow us to get out and walk. Right in front of our car there was a huge commotion. An elderly man was being held us by several people and there was a lot of frenzied shouting. Right before us we watched the man die. Rama, our guide and also a qualified nurse, got out of the car to help. She confirmed that he was not longer breathing and that his heart had stopped. We were all greatly saddened and moved to be witness to the end of this gentleman’s life.

The area of Dahavri was used to film several scenes of the movie, Slumdog Millionaire. The boys immediately recognized two of the spots: where the kids were running along and on top of the large sewage pipe to evade the police in one of the flashbacks, and the other, a bridge over the polluted river water. We stopped to visit with the actual resident families. Of course the young children were begging, but not the industrious young girls making their rhinestone embroidery nor their parents who were obviously engaged in employment utilizing their skills. Since we are here during the school summer break, we saw many of the young children. With discussions among the families and our guide, we realized that the slum was not tax-free, nor free-at-all. All tenants of the slum pay around Rs1500 ($40) per month in rent (this is quite different from the free township housing provided in South Africa where occupants do not work at all). We were shocked to learn that they would have to pay this much for a tin shack when their monthly earnings were little more than what they pay for rent. The Indian families were very hard working and doing whatever they can to provide for their families as welfare does not exist in India. The boys were enjoying watching their Indian counterparts play marbles. We were greatly saddened, however, to see children scavenging in the garbage, many without clothing or shoes. We left donations with each family we met but left feeling that we wished that we could do so much more. It was, without doubt, one of our most humbling experiences ever.

Another stop along the way was at the professional laundry next to the rail lines, know as Dohbi Ghats. Rows upon rows of men (only men) slamming clothes into their wash stones. Each man rents his stall and is paid per washed item. It looked like very hard work, especially in the 35 degree heat. Capitalism is alive and well in India.

Then off to the Hanging Gardens - so named as it is built hanging over the city’s rainwater reservoir. In the park there are some wonderfully manicured lawns and shrubs. Many of the shrubs are trimmed in the shape of African animals. Very amusing. The gardens were packed with Indian families as well (as mentioned, kids are on their school break), Many of these families asked to photograph us as we seemed to be the only fair-skinned visitors. It was uniquely entertaining to be the centre of such attention.

We then made a quick stop at the Victoria Station, the heart of the Indian rail system. Crowded, but orderly would be the best way todescribe it. It provides both metro trains and passenger trainsto the 18 million inhabitants of Mumbai.

Rama was one of the best guides we have encountered. She gave us an excellent overview of the history of Mumbai, religions of India, the caste system, and Indian society in general. In addition, she also took every opportunity possible to lecture the boys on not wasting food, appreciating what they have, listening to their parents, giving to others when possible, and treating others with respect regardless of their economic circumstance. Perfect!